Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral: 3-4 Week Guide

 

 

 

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral in 3 – 4 weeks

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral was the highlight of my South America adventure!  For almost 4 weeks my partner, Jack, and I stuck our thumbs out on the side of the road and managed to hitchhike over 1,200 kilometers (~800 miles). By the end, we were exhausted, dirty, and craving a good meal, but the views and experiences we had along the way were once in a lifetime. 

The Carretera Austral is the most beautiful stretch of road in the world and every single kilometer offers something amazing and unique to look at. We got to visit a lot of the national parks along the Ruta de Los Parques and we camped at incredible locations. We took ferries through the fjords, swam in waterfalls, climbed volcanos, visited hot springs, watched incredible sunsets, trekked through the mountains, saw too many glaciers to count, encountered unique wildlife, rafted on wild rivers, and hiked across to Argentina. I will never forget my experience hitchhiking the Carretera Austral! 

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral made our experience of Patagonia more memorable. We conversed with locals in Spanish and got to meet a lot of friendly travelers who picked us up along the way. However, hitchhiking the Carretera Austral was not always easy. Sometimes we spent hours waiting on the side of the road and we often got soaked in the rain. Planning was difficult because we didn’t know if it would take us 10 minutes or 3 hours to get a ride.

Fortunately, we always made it to our goal destination one way or another. A couple of buses or paid transports were included (when we got desperate) but for the most part, our thumbs got us the whole way. We spent almost nothing on transportation! In addition, we camped 19 out of 25 nights! 

If I had more money, I would do the route by campervan/car, but hitchhiking satisfied my adventurous spirit and I am so thankful we accomplished the feat! Continue reading for the full itinerary, tips, and photos! 

5 Things I never Travel Without

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3. Kindle – I love reading and Kindle makes it so easy to download new books on the go!
4. Osprey Backpack – whether I’m hiking in Patagonia or backpacking Europe, Osprey offers versatile backpacks for any type of travel
5. AirPods – These are a total game changer for traveling. I love the noise cancelling capability because it makes airplanes silent and blocks out unwanted noise. They are so much easier to wear around than normal headphones. 

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral Itinerary Overview

Here is a breakdown of our 25 days on the Carretera Austral. I will go into detail on the activities we did each day. I added suggestions to shortening or lengthening the route below! 

Day 1: Puerto Montt → Hornopiren

Day 2: Hornopiren → Caleta Gonzalo → Camping Cascadas Escondidas (Pumalin Park)

Day 3: Camping Cascadas Escondidas → Camping El Volcan (Pumalin Park)

Day 4: Camping El Volcan → El Caiten

Day 5: El Caiten → Camping Ventisquero (Pumalin Park)

Day 6: Camping Ventisquero

Day 7: Camping Ventisquero → Futaleufu

Day 8: Futaleufu

Day 9: Futaleufu

Day 10: Futaleufu → Termas El Sauce (close to La Junta)

Day 11: Termas El Sauce → Puerto Marin Balmaceda

Day 12: Puerto Marin Balmaceda → Parque Queulat

Day 13: Parque Queulat → Puerto Cisnes → Coyhaique

Day 14: Coyhaique

Day 15: Coyhaique → Cerro Castillo National Park (4 day trek)

Day 16: Cerro Castillo Trek

Day 17: Cerro Castillo Trek

Day 18: Cerro Castillo National Park → Coyhaique

Day 19: Coyhaique → Puerto Rio Tranquillo

Day 20: Puerto Rio Tranquillo

Day 21: Puerto RIo Tranquilo → Patagonia National Park

Day 22: Patagonia National Park → Cochrane

Day 23: Cochrane → Almost Villa O’higgins

Day 24: Villa O’higgins

Day 25: Villa O’higgins → Argentina Border

THE END! 

 Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral vs. Renting a Car

I had an incredible time hitchhiking and it definitely added a more adventurous element. However, it is not for everyone and requires a lot of patience. The biggest advantage of hitchhiking is the cost. Hitchhiking is FREE! We only spent money a couple of times when we needed to take a bus. In the end, we spent about $30 on transportation (you could do it totally free too). Another downside was not being able to stop along the way for photos. 

Car or Campervan pros and cons

With a car or campervan, you spend A LOT more because you have to pay for the rental each day (50 – 100 USD), gas, ferry fees, and any breakdowns. Rentals are more expensive on the Carretera Austral especially if you only want to drive one-way. In addition, gas prices are really high because it is so remote. To top it off, there is a 6-hour ferry to the “start” of the Carretera Austral that will cost close to $100 USD (on foot only cost $12). The total cost would be close to $2,000 when you consider food and accommodation costs.

A big plus with a car is the freedom to stop and go wherever you want. It is also a lot easier to plan because you will know how long it will take to get somewhere. You can also take advantage of the free wild campgrounds a lot easier. Check out Wicked Campers if you are looking for a car rental!

3 – 4 week Carretera Austral Itinerary:

It took us 25 days to hitchhike the Carretera Austral. We took our time in some locations, completed a 4-day trek, and tried not to rush. I will fill you in on the activities we did each day and advice on what I would have done differently.

Day 1: Puerto Montt → Hornopiren

• • We took a bus from Puerto Montt to Hornopiren (5,000 clp ~ 3 hours). 30-minute ferry. 
  • We arrived late in the evening and bought our ferry ticket for the next day (9,000 clp)
  • Paid 2,500 clp per person to camp in the side yard of a restaurant

• Tips:
  • These parks are along the way as well – Alerce Andino National Park (expensive, not worth it?) and Hornopiren National Park (easier with car)
  • Nicer campgrounds around Hornopiren if you have a car

Day 2: Hornopiren → Caleta Gonzalo → Camping Cascadas Escondidas (Pumalin Park)

• • Ferry ride is stunning and the landscape is cool to watch. The Ferry takes about 6 hours
  • Arrived at Caleta Gonzalo (OFFICIAL START of the Carretera Austral) around 2 pm.
  • Hitchhiking is really difficult when you get off the ferry! Try to meet someone on board. We met Thiago and his awesome VW Bus
  • Set up camp at Camping Cascadas Escondidas (Free at the time, usually 6,000 clp)
  • The hike goes to two waterfalls. You can swim in the first one! Takes about 45 minutes roundtrip 

• Tips:

• • Camping Cascadas Escondidas was pretty crowded – I’d check out the camping at Laguna Blanco

Day 3: Camping Cascadas Escondidas → Camping El Volcan (Pumalin Park)

• • We did the super quick Alerce trail to see some big trees (20 mins)
  • Ate lunch at Laguna Blanco Camping
  • Arrived at El Volcan camping and had a relaxing afternoon reading and admiring the views

• Tips:

• • If you only have 1 night in this section of the park, camp at El Volcan!
  • The Sendero Volcan Chaiten is the highlight of the park
  • Hitchhiking is possible in the park, but difficult because there is not a lot of traffic

Day 4: Camping El Volcan → El Chaiten

• • Sendero Volcan Chaiten ~ Awesome hike up to the top of a unique volcano
    • We waited at the top a while for the clouds to clear
    • Allow 2-4 hours
  • Ate awesome pizza in El Chaiten – Pizzeria Reconquista
  • Not much happening in town, we tried to hitchhike after our late lunch but had no luck
  • Camped in a crowded spot, basically in someone’s backyard – Camping Tierra Viva (5,000 clp)
    • These types of camps are popular in towns

• Tips: 

• • With a car you can easily skip staying in Chaiten and go straight to Camping Ventisquero (30 mins south of Chaiten)
  • Almost nothing is open on Sunday! 

Day 5: El Caiten → Camping Ventisquero (Pumalin Park)

• • Got an early start and we were picked up in less than 15 minutes (they took us to the entrance of the second section of Pumalin Park)
  • Walked to Camping Ventisquero Campground (8.5 km)
  • Beautiful campground views! One of my favorites
  • Pumalin Park is extremely nice and shockingly uncrowded
  • We did the mirador hike in the afternoon (about 1 hour round trip)

• Tips:

• • Cross the bridge out of Chaiten, walk 200 meters down the road for good hitchhike spot
  • It’s possible to hitchhike from the park entrance to the campground

Day 6: Camping Ventisquero

• • 20 km trek to the Glacier
    • Flat walk through a forest and along a rocky riverbed
    • Not the most exciting hike but the glacier is sweet to see up close

Day 7: Camping Ventisquero → Futaleufu

• • Trekked 8 km out of the Pumalin Park
  • Met a guy named Hank at the park entrance who was also headed to Futaleufu and caught a ride with him
  • Awesome day because he made a lot of photo stops 
  • Stayed at Hostal Las Natalias in Futaleufu (16,000 clp per person)
    • Beautiful views, and great vibes
  • Went for a swim in the river just down the road

• Tips:

• • Villa Santa Lucia is turn off for Futaleufu (not much between the two spots)

Day 8: Futaleufu

• • RAFTING!!! 
    • This is a must do! 
    • Paid 45,000 clp each for the bridge to bridge section
    • A lot of companies in town, we searched around for the best deal and went with Patagonia Elements

Day 9: Futaleufu

• • Hiked up to Piedra del Aguila
    • Awesome views! Highly recommend (1,000 clp)
    • Steep but short hike

Day 10: Futaleufu → Termas El Sauce (close to La Junta)

• • A very long day of hitchhiking
  • Waited on the other side of the bridge leaving Futaleufu for 3 hours! 
  • Decided to hop in the back of a hay truck and get a 16km ride (risky)
  • Luckily got picked up instantly from the middle of nowhere and made it to Santa Lucia (the Carretera Austral)
  • Waited in a line of people for almost an hour (very busy)
  • A bus came going to La Junta and we hopped on (5,000 clp each)
  • Termas El Sauce is off a dirt road heading towards Puerto Marin Balmaceda, the camping and Termas are 3 km from the road
  • It was almost sunset but I basically jumped in front of a car and stopped them to take us
  • SOOOO worth it because when you camp at the hot springs you have access to them all night! 

Day 11: Termas El Sauce → Puerto Raul Marin Balmaceda

• • Walked the 3 km out to the road, knew it would be difficult but attempted to hitchhike to Raul Marin Balmaceda
  • A group of English backpackers with a truck picked us up
  • Wild camped on the beach
    • A lot of dolphins and an incredible sunset

• Tips:

• • Read the ferry schedule when you turn down the road to Raul Marin Balmaceda
    • We got stuck waiting 2+ hours for a 5-minute ferry
  • Super difficult detour without a car
  • The beach town is incredibly small – don’t expect much infrastructure but it is beautiful and remote
  • A great spot to do a penguin, island boat tour. Also Whales at the right time of year

Day 12: Puerto Marin Balmaceda → Parque Queulat

• • Long drive back to the Carretera Austral (approx. 2.5 hours)
  • Arrived late afternoon and got the last campsite
  • A storm was coming in so we decided to hike to the mirador right away and catch the view
    • Took 1 hour to get up to the lookout. A bit of a climb through the forest
    • It was really muddy
  • The glacier was mostly covered by the time we arrived, but we could see the waterfall
    • I stole a photo from a girl that had been there 15 minutes earlier
  • Rainy wet night

Day 13: Parque Queulat → Puerto Cisnes → Coyhaique

• • Hiked up to the lake and got a great view of the glacier from afar, before the weather turned bad again
  • Started hitchhiking in the rain down the Carretera Austral
    • A LOT of hitchhikers here (start early)
  • Got a ride from a nice Chilean who was driving south with no real destination
    • Ended up detouring with him (on accident) to Puerto Cisnes
    • Delayed us a couple hours and not worth it (better for an ocean tour or overnight stop)
    • He dropped us off on the Carretera Austral when he returned north
  • Thankfully got a ride pretty quick from a lady going to Coyhaique! Thank goodness
  • Arrived so late and tried to find a cheap hostel, but ended up going to a campground
    • El Camping (most popular spot) 5,000 clp per person
    • Eat at Casa Tropera! Great beer and burgers

• Tips:

• • If hitchhiking start early – it is a long day
  • Don’t go to Puerto Cisnes
  • Not much to do in Coyhaique
    • Stock up on food, and get some good beer

Day 14: Coyhaique

• • Did a massive grocery store run
  • Ate decent pizza and ice cream
  • Stayed in a real bed at Hostal Donde Lupe
    • Cheap and clean private rooms

• Tips:

• • Budget accommodation in Coyhaique is not great
  • The last supermarket you will find! 

Day 15: Coyhaique → Cerro Castillo National Park (4 day trek)

• • Took an 8 am bus to the trailhead
  • Read about the whole trek here! 

Day 16: Cerro Castillo Trek

Day 17: Cerro Castillo Trek

Day 18: Cerro Castillo National Park → Coyhaique

• • I have never wanted a real bed so badly – found a hostel bed for 10,000 each
  • Stocked up on more food for the rest of our trip

Day 19: Coyhaique → Puerto Rio Tranquillo

• • Took a bus approx 4 hours, 12,000 clp each
  • Checked into Hostal Lucy
    • The owner is very nice and the room was simple but clean
    • Not much in Puerto Rio Tranquilo, but we needed to relax after the trek 

Day 20: Puerto Rio Tranquilo

• • Did a marble caves tour at 9 AM
    • I Highly recommend it! This was super cool and so cheap! (10,000 clp)
    • Only takes 1.5 hours and they leave all day long
  • Had a date night at a nice lakefront restaurant
    • Try Cancato! (sort of like a salmon pizza)

• Tips:

• • You could easily just stay here 1 night! 
  • Do the tour in the morning or when it is sunny for the best lighting
  • We decided not to do the glacier hike but it looks super cool if you have $$ to spend
    • I heard it is better than walking on Perito Moreno and a lot cheaper

Day 21: Puerto Rio Tranquilo → Patagonia National Park

• • We had a tough time hitchhiking from here – a lot less traffic heading south
    • Paid a van 5,000 each to get to the trailhead of Patagonia National Park
  • Really insane views going around Lago General Carrera (2nd biggest lake in South America)
    • One downside of hitchhiking we couldn’t stop along the way to take pictures
  • Waited about an hour at the turn off to the park before getting a ride to the visitors center
  • Parque Patagonia is really fancy! 
    • So many Guanacos hanging out on the perfectly manicured lawns
    • It cost 6,000 clp entrance and 8,000 to camp
  • Hiked a few kilometers to Camping Westwinds
• Tips:
  • Hitchhiking gets harder, start earlier
  • I wanted to stop at the Confluencia Rio Baker

Day 22: Patagonia National Park → Cochrane

• •  Lagunas Altas trek (23 km)
    • I really liked it, Jack hated it
    • Guanacos, multiple lakes and beautiful views
    • Parque Patagonia is a lot drier than the rest of Patagonia
  • We got incredibly lucky hitchhiking out of the park! 
    • Initially, they were just taking us back to the Carretera Austral, but there were so many hitchhikers at the bottom, they loaded us all up and took us to Cochrane! 
  • Got a quick meal and found a crowded “backyard” campground

• Tips:

• • With 4 wheel drive explore more of the park and stay another night at Casa Piedra Campground
  • Nothing going on in Cochrane – expensive and ugly

Day 23: Cochrane → Almost Villa O’higgins

• • Walked out of town, over the river to hitchhike south
    • Took 2 hours
    • Got a ride in the truck bed for another 2 hours
  • Waited at the turn off for Puerto Yungay for 4+ hours
    • The ferry only goes a couple of times a day so traffic is limited and we were not the first hitchhikers
  • Made it to the last ferry crossing of the day with very nice Dutch travelers
    • They drove us up the hill to Patagonia National Park
    • We also camped with them off the side of the road that night
      • So many freaking mosquitos!!

• Tips:

• • Bus to Villa O’higgins if you can!
    • Super cheap but only leaves every few days
  • Go to Caleta Tortel for a lunch stop
    • It is a little detour (hard if hitchhiking)
    • Small so not worth it to stay overnight
  • The ferry is free but long. CHECK THE SCHEDULE!
  • A long, windy, gravel drive to Villa O’Higgins

Day 24: Villa O’Higgins (The End of Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral)

• • There is nothing in Villa O’higgins and very little Wifi (no service)
  • We camped in town at a busy “backyard” campsite
  • Booked our ferry tickets to Argentina (40,000 + 2,000 bus)
    • San Lorenzo

• Tips:

• • You only need 1 night in Villa O’Higgins
  • Booking the ferry in advance is difficult
  • There are a few companies
    • The ferry doesn’t leave every day and is very affected by the weather

Day 25: Villa O’higgins → Argentina Border

• • Took a photo at the END of the Carretera Austral! 
  • 5-hour ferry across the lake was beautiful
  • Stamped out of Chile and had to hike 20 km with everything on our backs
  • The campground at the Argentina Border is AMAZING!! And Free! 

• Tips:

• • Bring Argentine Pesos (you need about 10 USD for the bus to Chalten)

• • You have to carry everything! 20 km + 12 km 

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral is the Best Way to Experience Patagonia

Hitchhiking the Carretera Austral was the highlight of my South America adventure. It was thrilling, challenging and so incredibly beautiful. This stretch of the world is unreal and I am so thankful I got to experience this part of Patagonia. It will be difficult for any other adventure to come close! I hope this guide inspires you to hit the road. Whether you go by thumb or car, you are sure to have an amazing time.

Comment if you have ever hitchhiked the Carretera Austral!